🌿 Species guide
🍃 Monstera
🍃 In brief
Large apartment: Monstera Deliciosa — the classic with large cut leaves · Small space: Monstera Adansonii — trailing and compact · Collection: Thai Constellation — cream variegated, rare and spectacular · Universal rule: bright indirect light, let dry between waterings, all toxic to pets
Monstera has become in a few years the most iconic indoor plant in the world — its large cut and perforated leaves are recognizable everywhere. But behind this success are several very different varieties, each with its own needs and characteristics. This guide covers them all.
Monstera varieties
The Monstera genus includes about fifty species, but only a handful are grown indoors. Here are the most available and interesting — from the classic Deliciosa to the highly sought rare varieties.
The classic and essential Monstera. Its large bright green leaves with deep cuts and characteristic perforations make it one of the most decorative plants available. It grows quickly in good conditions and can reach 2 meters or more indoors. Easy to care for, it tolerates a wide variety of light conditions.
See the Monstera Deliciosa →
The little sister of the Deliciosa — its leaves are much smaller, perforated with regular oval holes without the large cuts of the Deliciosa. Naturally trailing, it is perfect hanging or on a high shelf. More compact, it suits small apartments where the Deliciosa would be too imposing.
See the Monstera Adansonii →
The most sought-after variety — each leaf is unique, marbled with cream spots and splashes on a dark green background. The Thai Constellation is a stabilized horticultural selection, easier to find than the Albo-Variegata but just as spectacular. It grows slower than the Deliciosa and needs better light to maintain its variegation.
See the Thai Constellation →
Technically it is not a true Monstera — it is a Rhaphidophora tetrasperma — but its nickname "Monstera Minima" is well deserved: its small cut leaves look exactly like a miniature Deliciosa. Fast growth, compact habit, ideal for small spaces and shelves. Its rapid growth makes it a very rewarding plant.
See the Monstera Minima →
The Monstera Minima shown in kokedama — a ball of Japanese moss that replaces the traditional pot. To hang or place on a saucer, this format brings a botanical and original decorative touch. Watering is done by soaking the moss ball in water for 15–20 minutes.
See the Kokodama →Quick comparison
| Variety | Adult size | Brightness | Difficulty | Ideal for | Toxic to animals |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Deliciosa | 1–2.5 m | Partial shade to light | ⭐ Easy | Large living room, entrance | Yes |
| Adansonii | 50 cm–1 m | Partial shade to light | ⭐ Easy | Shelf, hanging | Yes |
| Thai Constellation | 1–1.5 m | Bright light | ⭐⭐ Moderate | Collection, bright room | Yes |
| Minima (R. tetrasperma) | 60 cm–1.2 m | Bright light | ⭐ Easy | Small space, shelf | Low |
| Kokodama Minima | 25–40 cm | Bright light | ⭐⭐ Moderate | Decorative hanging | Low |
Light and placement
Monstera is a tropical understory plant — in its natural environment, it grows under the canopy with bright but filtered light. Indoors, it adapts to a wide range of brightness levels, but light directly influences the shape of the leaves.
💡 Light and fenestrations: the direct link
The characteristic holes and cuts of Monstera — the "fenestrations" — only appear on mature leaves of a plant receiving enough light. A Monstera in a room that is too dark will produce whole leaves without cuts. If your new leaves have no holes, it is almost always a sign of lack of light. See our guide light and humidity.
- Monstera Deliciosa and Adansonii: bright indirect light — east, west, or south window with sheer curtains. They tolerate partial shade but the leaves will remain small and without fenestrations.
- Monstera Thai Constellation: needs better brightness than Deliciosa to maintain its variegation — a bright window without sheer curtains is ideal.
- Monstera Minima: fastest growth with good light — prefer an east or west window.
- Avoid direct sun that burns the leaves, especially for Panaché varieties.
Watering and humidity
Monstera is relatively drought-tolerant — its large waxy leaves limit water loss. Overwatering is its main cause of decline indoors.
Watering rule
Water when the top 3–4 centimeters of substrate are dry. Always use the finger test. In summer: about once a week. In winter: once every 2 weeks. Never let water stagnate in the saucer.
⚠️ Guttation: water droplets on leaves
It is common to see water droplets appear at the tips of leaves in the morning — this is "guttation," a normal phenomenon by which the Monstera expels excess absorbed water. This is not a problem. However, if the leaves yellow at the base, it is often a sign of overwatering — see our guide on yellow leaves.
Air humidity
Monstera appreciates ambient humidity between 50 and 70%. In dry apartments or with heating, mist the leaves 2 to 3 times a week, or place the pot on a tray of moist clay pebbles. Leaves with brown edges usually indicate air that is too dry. See the light and humidity guide.
General care
Fertilization
Fertilize with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 15 days from March to September. Do not fertilize in winter — the Monstera is in vegetative slowdown and excess mineral salts can burn the roots.
Stake and growth direction
Monstera Deliciosa naturally climbs — in its natural environment, it attaches to tree trunks using its aerial roots. Indoors, a moss stake (or "totem") allows the plant to climb and stimulates the production of larger leaves. The aerial roots can be guided toward the pot to hydrate directly.
Repotting
Repot in spring (March-April) when roots overflow from the drainage holes, into a pot 3–4 cm larger. A draining substrate (potting soil + 20–30% perlite) is ideal. To learn all about the technique, check the complete repotting guide.
Leaf cleaning
The large leaves of Monstera quickly accumulate dust — which reduces their ability to capture light. Wipe each leaf with a damp cloth every 2 to 3 weeks. This also keeps the foliage shiny and decorative.
- Fertilize once every 2 weeks from March to September
- Install a moss stake to guide vertical growth
- Repot in spring if roots overflow
- Clean the leaves every 2–3 weeks
- Turn the pot a quarter turn regularly for even growth
Common problems and solutions
| Symptom | Likely cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves without holes or cuts | Plant too young or lack of light | Improve light exposure and be patient — fenestrations appear after 2–3 years |
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering (main cause) or aging | Reduce watering, check drainage. See yellow leaves: 5 causes |
| Brown leaf edges | Air too dry or water too hard | Increase ambient humidity, use filtered or water left to rest for 24h |
| Soft and drooping leaves | Lack of water or suffocated roots | Check the substrate with the finger test |
| Panaché fading (Monstera Thai Constellation) | Insufficient brightness | Move closer to a very bright window — Panaché requires more light than green varieties |
| Very slow growth | Lack of light, nutrients, or pot too small | Improve exposure, fertilize, check if repotting is necessary |
| Invasive aerial roots | Normal — natural growth | Guide towards the substrate or stake, or cut cleanly if obstructive. Do not tear off. |
Verdeia Collection
All Monstera varieties
Deliciosa, Adansonii, Monstera Thai Constellation, Kokodama Monstera Minima — from compact to XXL size, each variety comes with a care sheet.
Frequently asked questions
Young leaves are always whole — fenestrations only appear from the 2nd or 3rd year on a mature plant that receives enough light. A Monstera Deliciosa in low light can grow indefinitely without developing its holes. Solution: improve the exposure and be patient. Check our light and humidity guide.
The Monstera Deliciosa has very large cut leaves and an XXL size — for large spaces. The Monstera Adansonii is much more compact, with small leaves perforated with oval holes and a naturally trailing habit — perfect hanging or on a shelf. For small apartments, Adansonii is the best choice.
Water when the top 3–4 cm of substrate is dry — about once a week in summer, once every 2 weeks in winter. Always use the finger test. Overwatering is the main cause of yellowing leaves.
In most cases: overwatering. The substrate stays too wet and the roots suffocate. Let it dry, check drainage, and reduce watering frequency. Other possible causes: lack of light, nutrient deficiency (fertilize), or natural aging of lower leaves (normal). See the guide yellow leaves: 5 causes and solutions.
Yes — all Monstera varieties contain calcium oxalate crystals toxic to cats and dogs. Keep out of reach. For homes with pets, check out our selection of pet-friendly plants.
The Monstera Deliciosa adult can become very bulky — plan at least 1 to 1.5 m² of floor space. For small spaces, choose the Monstera Adansonii (trailing, compact) or the Monstera Minima (Rhaphidophora tetrasperma, more controlled growth).
Verdeia Shop
Find your ideal Monstera
From compact size for a shelf to XXL for a living room — each Monstera comes with its complete care sheet.
