Urban jungle
Care tips
Secrets of an ideal environment for your indoor plants
You water properly, repot carefully... and yet, some plants seem sulky? The problem doesn’t always come from your care, but often from two essential factors: light and humidity. Finding the right balance between the two is the key to a thriving urban jungle. Here’s how to achieve it.
1. ☀️ Understanding light: the fuel for your plants
Light is the vital energy of plants. Without it, no photosynthesis, so no growth. But beware: too much or too little light can cause damage. Two parameters to know: intensity and duration.
🔎 Simple intensity markers (close to urban reality)
| Situation | Practical reference | Examples of plants |
|---|---|---|
| Strong light (south, clear window) | Sharp shadow of your hand at noon; sensitive heat at 30–50 cm from the glass | cactus, succulents, aloe, yucca, ficus lyrata, aromatic plants |
| Medium light (east/west, light filter) | Soft shadow/blurred edges; pleasant brightness without glare | monstera, philodendron, spathiphyllum, dieffenbachia, calathea |
| Low light (north, dim room) | No sharp shadow; you often turn on the light during the day | zamioculcas, sansevieria, aspidistra, aglaonema |
Distance from the window matters as much as orientation. At 2–3 m from a window, intensity can be reduced by 4 to 10 times. Moving closer to 50–80 cm is sometimes enough to restart growth.
🧭 Orientation & seasons
- South: abundant light all year; filter in summer (light voile) to avoid burns.
- East: soft morning light, ideal for sensitive tropicals.
- West: warmer afternoon sun; watch leaf edges.
- North: even but weak; favor tolerant species and clear mirrors to reflect light.
Winter: move plants closer to windows and clean the glass; summer: move slightly back and filter direct rays.
The “big jump”: moving a plant from a dark corner to full sun overnight. Proceed in stages (2–3 days per spot) to acclimate it.
2. 💧 Humidity, the other secret to plant well-being
In heated interiors, air often drops below 35–40% relative humidity in winter. Many tropicals are more comfortable between 50 and 65%.
🌿 How to increase humidity effectively
- Group plants: they create a more humid microclimate.
- Wet clay balls under the pot (without direct contact with water) for slight continuous evaporation.
- Humidifier: effective, especially in very dry rooms; aim for 50–55% daily.
- Targeted misting: useful for calathea/maranta/sensitive aloes, in the morning to let dry before night.
The bright bathroom is an ideal haven for calathea, ferns, alocasia, maranta. Avoids cold drafts when coming out of the shower.
🌡️ Temperature & ventilation (the forgotten duo)
- Comfort range for many tropicals: 18–24 °C (night 16–18 °C).
- Gentle ventilation: air out 5–10 min/day; avoids direct cold air drafts on the leaves.
- Radiators: keep 60–80 cm away; heat quickly dries the substrate and air.
Misting in the evening (promotes fungal spots), placing the pot in stagnant water, putting the plant near the radiator, or confusing soft leaves from heat with lack of water.
3. 🌞💧 Find the right balance
Light, humidity, heat, and watering are linked: the more light and heat, the more the plant consumes water and transpires. In shade and coolness, it drinks less.
🧪 Simple method to adjust watering
- Finger test: push 3–4 cm; if dry → water; if fresh → wait.
- Pot weight: weigh in hand “after watering” vs “dry”; an excellent guide to avoid overwatering.
- Seasons: summer = closer waterings; winter = longer space between waterings.
- Summer: intense light = more frequent waterings, more regular visual checks.
- Winter: low light = drier soil between waterings, especially if the room is cool.
🔁 Acclimation & micro-movements
Move the plant 30–60 cm and observe for 7–10 days: more vigorous leaves, new shoots, more saturated color = you are on the right track.
4. 🏡 Adapt your interior to your plants (not the other way around)
Rather than forcing a plant to live where it doesn't thrive, choose the species suited to each room and organize coherent zones: tropicals together (humidity), succulents together (strong light), etc.
🌞 Bright living room
monstera, alocasia, ficus, strelitzia, schefflera.
🌤 Medium light bedroom
calathea, maranta, scindapsus, peperomia.
🌥 Humid bathroom
ferns, spathiphyllum, philodendron, fittonia.
🌞 Sunny kitchen
aromatics, cactus, aloe vera, haworthia.
Play with heights (shelves, stools, hangings) and textures (smooth vs veined leaves). A bright spot for succulents + a humid spot for tropicals = a more beautiful home and happier plants.
5. 🪴 Substrate, pot & drainage (the hidden balance)
An ideal environment is also a aerated substrate and a suitable pot:
- Drainage: hole at the bottom of the pot + draining layer (clay balls). Cache-pots without holes retain water → empty excess after 10–15 min.
- Substrate: universal mix + perlite (or fine pumice) to aerate; fine tropicals (calathea) like a rich substrate but never compact.
- Pot size: +2 cm diameter is enough; a pot too big = excess residual moisture.
Repotting “large size” to space out watering: you increase the risk of root suffocation. Better small regular steps.
6. 🌿 Read leaf signs
- Pale/small leaves → lack of light; move closer to a window (gradually).
- Burned/rolled leaves → too much direct sun or air too hot; filter, move 30–60 cm away.
- Brown and dry tips → air too dry; increase humidity (grouping, humidifier).
- Soft leaves despite watering → suffocated roots or heat; check drainage, space out watering, improve aeration.
- Diffuse yellowing → chronic overwatering; let dry longer, lighten the substrate.
1) Touch the substrate at 3–4 cm. 2) Look at the distance to the window. 3) Look for a heat source/airflow. 4) Lift the pot (weight). 5) Inspect 2–3 roots (if needed): firm white = OK; soft brown = too much water.
7. 🧭 Quick checklists
✅ Before watering
- Dry substrate on surface and at 3–4 cm?
- Last watering ≥ 7 days ago (excluding heatwave summer)?
- Pot with hole + saucer emptied 10–15 min later?
- Tonic leaves (not soft from heat)?
🌞 Adjust light without risk
- Move in stages (2–3 days/location).
- Observe 7–10 days (color, vigor, new shoots).
- Clean leaves (microfiber) to optimize photosynthesis.
8. ❓ Mini-FAQ
Is misting enough to increase humidity?
It helps, but its effect is short. For lasting benefit, combine grouping, clay balls, and humidifier.
My plant hasn’t grown for months, is that normal?
Often in winter, yes. Check light intensity (move it closer to a window) and limit watering while it’s dark.
Should the pot be turned regularly?
Yes, a quarter turn every 1–2 weeks prevents growth "leaning" toward the window.
Are grow lights useful?
Very useful in winter or dark rooms. Choose a 4000–6500 K lamp, 20–40 cm above, 10–12 h/day.
🌼 In summary
A successful plant interior is a balance between suitable light, sufficiently humid air, measured watering, and aerated substrate. Observe, adjust little by little, and your plants will reward you with healthy and sustainable growth.
🌱 To go further
Discover on Verdeia.eu our plants adapted to each type of light and our maintenance accessories (sprayers, clay balls, humidifiers…).
Because a balanced urban jungle starts with a harmonious environment.
