❄️ Plants in winter
💧 Watering
🌡️ Temperature & humidity
🪴 Seasonal care
❄️ In brief — quick answer
In winter, your plants mainly suffer from 3 enemies: dry heating air, lack of light, and overwatering. The 5 key actions are: increase ambient humidity, keep away from radiators, reduce watering, maximize light, and stop fertilizing until March.
January and February are the most critical months for your indoor plants. But with the right habits, not only will they survive — they can even thrive. This guide explains exactly what to do and why.
The 3 invisible enemies of winter
Before acting, understand. Your plants don’t suffer from the cold itself, but from the indoor conditions winter brings.
| Enemy | What’s happening | Visible consequences |
|---|---|---|
| 🔥 Dry heating air | Central heating drops humidity to 20–30%, while most tropical plants need 50–60% | Brown, crispy leaf edges, premature leaf drop, pest appearance |
| ☁️ Lack of light | Short days and low sun drastically reduce photosynthesis | Entering survival mode, slowed or stopped growth, yellowing of lower leaves |
| 💧 Inappropriate watering | Watering as in summer even though needs have halved | Root rot, soft and yellow leaves, soft stem at the base |
5 signs your plant is suffering from winter cold
- Especially on tropical plants
- Often linked to overwatering
- Or lack of light
- Classic sign of air that’s too dry
- Worsened by proximity to a radiator
- Irreversible — cut off damaged parts
- Overwatering combined with cold
- Risk of root rot
- Act quickly: reduce watering + repot
- Scale insects and red spiders love dry air
- Check the underside of the leaves
- Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil
💡 Growth stopped: normal or not?
A complete growth stop in winter is normal — it’s the plant’s resting phase. However, if this pause comes with significant leaf drop or softening stems, there is a problem to fix. Check our guide Yellow leaves: causes and solutions to identify the issue precisely.
Tip #1: Increase ambient humidity
This is the most impactful action in winter. Most tropical plants need 50 to 60% humidity — heating often drops to 20%. The gap is significant.
- Mist foliage 2–3 times a week
- Place pots on trays of moist clay pebbles (without the base touching the water)
- Group your plants to create a microclimate
- Use an electric humidifier in main rooms
- Do not mist fuzzy-leafed plants (African violets, kalanchoe)
- Do not place the pot’s base in standing water
- Avoid misting in the evening (risk of fungus)
- Do not wet the flowers directly
🛒 Our tools for humidity
A quality spray bottle and clay pebbles make all the difference. Find our selection in the Watering & Care collection.
Tip #2: Keep away from heat (and cold) sources
Thermal shock is as dangerous as the cold itself. Your plants need stability.
| To absolutely avoid | Why | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Pot placed on or just behind a radiator | Dries out soil and foliage within hours | Keep at least 1 meter distance |
| Plant against a window in winter | Windows can drop to 5–8 °C at night | Keep 20–30 cm distance, close curtains at night |
| Hallway or entrance with frequently opened doors | Repeated cold drafts = yellowing leaves | Move to a room with a stable temperature |
| Plant in an unheated room | Risk of death below 10 °C for tropical plants | All tropical plants must stay above 15 °C |
🌡️ The ideal temperature
The vast majority of indoor plants thrive between 18 and 22 °C during the day and 15 to 18 °C at night. Sudden changes are the number one enemy — a stable, cool temperature is better than a high but unstable one.
Tip #3: Adjust watering — less, but better
This is the classic winter trap: continuing to water like in summer. Guaranteed result: root rot.
- In summer: every 5–7 days on average
- In winter: every 10–15 days
- Golden rule: wait until the top 3–5 cm are dry
- Use water at room temperature, never cold
- Finger test: 2–3 cm into the soil
- Lift the pot: if it feels light, it’s dry
- Observe the color of the soil surface
- When in doubt, always wait 2–3 more days
⚠️ Warning sign not to ignore
If the stem is soft at the base and the soil has been wet for more than 2 weeks, your plant is probably rotting at the root. Remove it from the pot immediately, cut off the black roots, and repot in fresh, well-draining soil — choose a pot with good drainage holes to prevent the problem from recurring.
For a detailed method tailored to each species, check our complete indoor plant watering guide.
Step #4: Maximize available light
In winter, even a sunny window receives 2 to 3 times less light than in summer. Every ray counts.
- Move your plants closer to windows — without touching cold glass (keep 20–30 cm distance)
- Wipe leaves with a damp cloth to optimize photosynthesis
- Turn pots a quarter turn each week for even growth
- Clean the windows: dirt can block up to 20% of the light
- For the most demanding plants, consider a full-spectrum LED grow light — especially useful for shade and partial shade plants that suffer the most in winter.
💡 Which grow light to choose?
Prefer full-spectrum LED lamps (cool + warm white), placed 30–50 cm from the plants. Exposing plants for 12 to 16 hours a day effectively compensates for the lack of natural light for the most demanding plants like Calathea or ferns.
Step #5: Stop fertilizing until March
Your plants are in a dormant state. Their metabolism slows down — they simply don’t need extra nutrients.
⚠️ Why fertilizing in winter is counterproductive
Fertilizing during dormancy can burn roots weakened by cold or cause leggy growth (long, thin stems reaching for light). Stop fertilizing completely from November to February, then gradually resume in March-April at half the usual dose.
To understand plant nutrition by season, check out our guide Fertilizers and nutrition for indoor plants.
Top 5 plants that love (or tolerate very well) winter
| Plant | Why it easily survives winter | Winter watering |
|---|---|---|
| 🌿 Sansevieria (mother-in-law’s tongue) | Handles dry air, low light, and very infrequent watering. Almost indestructible. | Once a month is enough |
| 🪴 Zamioculcas (ZZ plant) | Its rhizomes store water — perfect for forgetful watering. Tolerates shade. | Every 3–4 weeks |
| 🍃 Pothos (Epipremnum) | Adapts to low light, grows even in winter, forgives irregular watering. | Every 10–14 days |
| 🌱 Aspidistra | Nicknamed the “iron plant” — resists everything, including dry air and moderate cold. | Every 2–3 weeks |
| 🕷️ Chlorophytum (spider plant) | Tolerates dry air, purifies the air, and keeps producing runners even in winter. | Every 10–14 days |
🛒 Need a plant that will survive your winter?
Our collection of easy-care plants includes the hardiest and most tolerant species, perfect for getting through the cold season stress-free.
Winter checklist: to do now
- Check each plant’s location: at least 1 m from radiators, at least 20 cm from windows
- Test soil moisture before each watering — wait until the top 3–5 cm are dry
- Clean leaves with a damp cloth to optimize photosynthesis
- Check the undersides of leaves for red spider mites or scale insects
- Group tropical plants together to create a humid microclimate
- Plan for a misting system or humidifier in main rooms
- Remove saucers full of stagnant water after each watering
- Stop fertilizing completely until March
FAQ — Indoor plants in winter
Leaf drop in winter is usually caused by three factors: dry air from heating, lack of natural light, or overwatering. Tropical plants like Ficus are especially sensitive. Increase ambient humidity with a mister and reduce watering frequency by half compared to summer.
Yes, absolutely. In winter, plants enter dormancy and their water needs decrease by 40 to 60%. Wait until the top 3 to 5 centimeters of soil are dry before watering — about every 10 to 15 days instead of every 5 to 7 days in summer. Always use water at room temperature.
Most tropical indoor plants do not tolerate temperatures below 15 °C. The ideal range is between 18 and 22 °C during the day and 15 to 18 °C at night. Keep your plants away from cold windows at night and from radiators that cause sudden temperature changes. Tropical plants (Monstera, Calathea, Alocasia) can die below 10 °C.
Four effective solutions: mist the foliage 2 to 3 times a week (except for fuzzy plants), place pots on trays of moist clay pebbles without the pot bottom touching the water, group your plants to create a microclimate, and use an electric humidifier in main rooms.
No. Plants are in dormancy from November to February and do not need extra nutrients. Adding fertilizer can burn weakened roots or force leggy growth. Resume fertilizing gradually from March, starting with half the usual dose.
Brown, crispy leaf edges are a classic sign of air that is too dry, very common in winter with heating. Solution: increase ambient humidity by misting regularly, move the plant away from the radiator, and place it on a tray of moist clay pebbles. Cut off damaged parts with clean scissors — they will not turn green again.
Yes, but with caution. Move your plants closer to the windows to maximize light, but avoid direct contact with cold glass that can cause thermal shock. Keep a distance of 20 to 30 cm, close the curtains at night if temperatures drop significantly. Turn the pots a quarter turn each week for even growth.
The most winter-hardy are Sansevieria (mother-in-law’s tongue), Zamioculcas (ZZ plant), Pothos, Aspidistra, and Chlorophytum. These plants tolerate dry air, infrequent watering, and low light, making them perfect for beginners or dim interiors in winter.
Yes, if they’re exposed to temperatures that are too low or cold drafts. Tropical plants like Monstera, Calathea, or Alocasia start to suffer below 15 °C and can die under 10 °C. Signs include limp leaves, rapid blackening, and rot. Protect them from open windows, front doors, and unheated rooms.
🌱 And after winter?
Starting in March, you’ll see your plants gradually wake up. It’s time to resume normal watering, repot if needed, and restart fertilizing. Our guide Preparing your plants for spring walks you through this process step by step.
💚 Unsure about your plant’s condition?
Not sure what’s affecting your plant this winter? Our team is here.
Contact us via chat, by email at hello@verdeia.eu, or through our contact form and we’ll help you make the right diagnosis. 🌿
Conclusion: patience and observation, your best allies
Winter is not a period to fear for your plants — it’s a time to understand and anticipate. With less water, more ambient humidity, good light exposure, and no fertilizer, almost all your plants will get through winter without problems.
The 3 rules to remember:
- Less water: always wait until the top 3–5 cm of soil is dry
- More humidity: mist, group plants, use clay pebbles
- No fertilizer: resume only in March
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