🌿 Species guide
🍃 Philodendron
🍃 In brief
Climbing: Scandens, Brasil, Micans, Melanochrysum — to stake or let trail · Upright: Imperial Red, Imperial Green, Congo Red, Birkin — self-supporting, rosette form · Universal rule: bright indirect light, let dry between waterings, all toxic to animals
Philodendron is one of the richest indoor plant families — over 400 species, with forms ranging from small trailing vines to large tropical shrubs. Mostly easy to care for, they adapt to a wide variety of conditions. This guide covers the most available and decorative varieties.
Climbing or upright: understanding the difference
Before choosing a Philodendron, a fundamental distinction: climbers and uprights have very different habits and decorative uses.
Climbing Philodendrons
Climbers are the most versatile — staked, they climb; trailing, they cascade. Their heart-shaped leaves and flexible stems make them very adaptable plants for small spaces.
The heart vine — the most classic and easiest Philodendron. Its small shiny green heart-shaped leaves grow quickly in almost any condition. Trailing on a shelf or climbing a stake, it adapts to all spaces and forgives watering forgetfulness.
See the Scandens →
The variegated version of the Scandens — each heart-shaped leaf is marked with a large yellow-green spot in the center. Very decorative and fast-growing. It needs a bit more light than the green Scandens to maintain its variegation. One of the most popular vines right now.
See the Brasil →
The Philodendron Micans is unique — its heart-shaped leaves have an iridescent velvety texture, bronze-green in normal light and almost violet backlit. A tactile and visual foliage you never tire of looking at. Very trendy, it grows easily and is simple to propagate.
See the Micans →
One of the most spectacular Philodendrons — its large heart-shaped leaves reach 40 to 60 cm long with a velvety dark green texture with golden highlights and very pronounced ivory veins. A vigorous climber on a moss stake, it can reach 1.5 m. More demanding in light than other climbers.
See the Melanochrysum →
The White Princess is a highly sought-after variegated variety — each leaf is unique, with white splashes and patches on a dark green background. Its growth is slower than standard Philodendrons, making it a plant to enjoy over time. It needs good light to maintain its variegation.
See the White Princess →
The Pedatum stands out with its large leaves deeply cut into irregular lobes — a very different look from the heart-shaped leaves of other climbers. Its architectural silhouette and large size make it an impactful plant for open spaces and large rooms.
See the Pedatum →The upright Philodendrons
The upright ones are the most self-sufficient — no stake, no stems escaping everywhere. Their dense rosette shape and large leaves make them very decorative indoor plants, often more resilient than the climbers.
The most dramatic of the upright Philodendrons — its large leaves start bright red and gradually turn dark burgundy as they age. This color change during growth creates a very decorative multicolored foliage. Robust and undemanding, it tolerates partial shade well.
See the Imperial Red →
The all-green version of the Imperial — its large bright shiny green oval leaves form a dense and generous rosette. More understated than the Imperial Red but just as striking. Its sturdiness and tolerance to partial shade make it one of the most accessible Philodendrons for beginners.
See the Imperial Green →
The Birkin is a hybrid with a unique personality — its dark green oval leaves are finely striped with ivory white, forming almost graphic patterns. Each new leaf is different. Compact and very decorative, it is perfect for a desk or dresser. It can spontaneously "revert" to solid green foliage — this is normal.
See the Birkin →
A spectacular Philodendron whose every new leaf emerges bright orange and gradually turns green as it ages. The plant thus permanently displays several shades simultaneously. Very decorative, it adds an unusual warm color touch in the world of Philodendrons.
See the Prince of Orange →
The Congo Red is the large size version of upright Philodendrons with colored leaves — its large dark green lance-shaped leaves with burgundy reflections can reach 50 cm long. Very architectural, it brings an immediate presence to a living room or entrance. Sturdy and low maintenance.
See the Congo Red →Quick comparison
| Variety | Type | Light | Difficulty | Feature |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Scandens | Climbing | Partial shade | ⭐ Very easy | Versatile, fast growing |
| Brasil | Climbing | Good light | ⭐ Easy | Yellow-green Panaché |
| Micans | Climbing | Partial shade | ⭐ Easy | Iridescent velvety foliage |
| Melanochrysum | Climbing | Good light | ⭐⭐ Moderate | Remarkable large velvety foliage |
| White Princess | Climbing | Good light | ⭐⭐ Moderate | Rare white Panaché |
| Pedatum | Climbing | Good light | ⭐ Easy | Architectural cut leaves |
| Imperial Red | Upright | Partial shade | ⭐ Very easy | Red leaves → burgundy |
| Imperial Green | Upright | Partial shade | ⭐ Very easy | Classic, sturdy |
| Birkin | Upright | Good light | ⭐ Easy | Unique white striped |
| Prince of Orange | Upright | Good light | ⭐ Easy | New bright orange leaves |
| Congo Red | Upright | Partial shade | ⭐ Easy | Large size, burgundy leaves |
General care
Light
Most Philodendrons prefer bright indirect light — near an east or west window without direct sun. Varieties with colored or variegated leaves (Brasil, Birkin, Philodendron White Princess, Philodendron 'Prince of Orange') need more light to maintain their colors. Varieties with fully green leaves (Scandens, Imperial Green, Philodendron Congo Red) tolerate partial shade better. See our light and humidity guide to find the ideal location.
Watering
Water when the top 3–4 centimeters of substrate are dry. Always use the finger test. In summer: about once a week. In winter: once every 2 weeks. Never let water stagnate in the saucer — Philodendron is sensitive to root rot. See the complete watering guide to master the technique.
Stake for climbers
Climbers produce aerial roots that naturally cling. A moist moss stake stimulates the production of larger leaves — this is especially spectacular for the Melanochrysum and the Pedatum. Taut wires or trellises also work well.
Humidity and fertilization
Philodendron prefers humidity of 50–70%. In dry air (heating, air conditioning), mist the leaves 2 to 3 times a week. Fertilize with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 15 days from March to September.
Repotting
Repot in spring into a pot 3–4 cm wider when roots overflow. Recommended draining substrate: potting soil + perlite (20–30%). Detailed guide: complete repotting guide.
Propagation
Climbing plants root very easily — a stem with 2 to 3 leaves placed in water or directly in substrate roots in 2 to 4 weeks. Upright plants multiply by division during repotting. See the cutting and propagation guide.
- Bright indirect light for all panaché varieties
- Water when the top 3–4 cm are dry
- Moss stake for climbers = bigger leaves
- Spray leaves 2–3 times a week if the air is dry
- Fertilize every 2 weeks from March to September
Common problems and solutions
| Symptom | Probable cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering (main cause) | Reduce watering, check drainage. See yellow leaves: 5 causes |
| Brown leaf edges | Air too dry or water too hard | Increase humidity, use filtered or rested water for 24h |
| Variegation disappearing | Insufficient brightness | Move closer to a light source — all panaché varieties need more light |
| Small leaves, long stems | Lack of light (etiolation) | Improve exposure, cut etiolated stems to stimulate regrowth |
| Birkin turning green again | Normal — genetic instability of the cultivar | No action needed. Cut fully green leaves to encourage variegated regrowth |
| Soft leaves | Lack of water or excess water | Check the substrate with the finger test |
| Red spider mites / scale insects | Dry air, stress | Treat with neem oil, increase humidity. See the diagnosis guide |
Verdeia Collection
All Philodendrons
Climbing, upright, panaché, velvety — over 20 varieties available, each with its care sheet.
Frequently asked questions
Climbing plants (Scandens, Micans, Melanochrysum) produce long stems that climb or hang down — to be staked or hung. Upright plants (Imperial Red, Birkin, Congo Red) form a compact, self-supporting rosette — no stake needed. Climbers are suitable for shelves and hanging, uprights for the floor or on furniture.
Water when the top 3–4 cm of substrate is dry — about once a week in summer, once every 2 weeks in winter. Always use the finger test. Overwatering is the main cause of problems.
In most cases: overwatering. The substrate stays too wet and the roots suffocate. Reduce watering frequency and check drainage. Other causes: lack of light, nutrient deficiency. See the guide yellow leaves: 5 causes and solutions.
Yes — all varieties contain calcium oxalate crystals toxic to cats and dogs. Keep out of reach. For homes with pets, check our selection of pet-friendly plants and our guide on plants and pets.
Bright indirect light for all varieties — near an east or west window without direct sun. Panaché varieties (Birkin, White Princess, Brasil) need more light to maintain their patterns. Fully green leaf varieties (Imperial Green, Scandens) tolerate partial shade better.
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Find Your Ideal Philodendron
From Scandens for a shelf to Congo Red for a living room — each plant comes with its complete care sheet.
