Spathiphyllum: Guide to Varieties and Care

Portrait of the moonflower

The Spathiphyllum belongs to the large Araceae family, which includes Philodendron, Anthurium, and Aglaonema. It is found wild in the humid understory of tropical forests in Central and South America, as well as some Pacific islands. There, it grows close to the ground, in the shade of the canopy, in a warm and humid atmosphere where light only filters through. This origin explains two of its great indoor qualities: remarkable tolerance to low light and a preference for a slightly humid environment.

Its foliage forms a dense clump of lance-shaped leaves, standing on long flexible petioles that arise directly from the base. The blade, a deep glossy green, is marked with clearly visible parallel veins that give it a satin texture. Depending on the variety, the plant stays compact, ideal on furniture, or grows into a beautiful floor specimen over a meter tall. But what made the moonflower famous are its spathes: those large white sails that rise above the foliage and are mistaken for flowers.

Its scientific name already says it all. It comes from the Greek spathê, the spathe, that sail-shaped bract, and phyllon, the leaf: literally, "the spathe-leaf." In French, it is nicknamed moonflower for the lunar whiteness of its spathes, or sometimes peace flower, referring to their little white flag silhouette. Behind these poetic names hides a robust plant, cultivated and selected for decades to multiply sizes and blooms.

In terms of growth, Spathiphyllum produces new leaves from the center of the clump, rolled up then unfolding one by one. A well-established plant thickens regularly at the base and gains volume year after year, eventually forming a dense crown. This vigorous but orderly growth makes it a durable plant, maintaining a full and neat silhouette for a long time as long as its few preferences are respected. It is naturally found in a selection of tolerant plants known for their ease.

Varieties to discover

The range of Spathiphyllum is mainly defined by size: from compact to medium varieties, perfect on furniture, up to large imposing floor pieces. Here are the varieties grouped by their size for easy reference.

Compact to medium sizes

Half-height table size, ideal on a desk, console, or shelf, where you want greenery and flowering without clutter.

Spathiphyllum 'Bingo Cupido'

CompactBright greenEasy

Compact and dense clump, glossy dark green lanceolate leaves, numerous white spathes held well above the foliage.

Spathiphyllum 'Torelli'

MediumDeep greenEasy

Large shiny deep green veined leaves, upright and elegant posture, large white spathes resembling small flags.

📏 H65 cm | Pot Ø17 cm

Spathiphyllum 'Vivaldi'

MediumVeined greenEasy

Dense and flowering clump, medium green leaves with marked veins, generous and regular flowering throughout the year.

📏 H70 cm | Pot Ø17 cm

Large floor pieces

Imposing size, from eighty centimeters to over one meter, to structure a room corner, dress a bare floor, or create a true green focal point.

Spathiphyllum 'Sweet Silvana'

LargeDark greenEasy

Beautiful robust floor piece, large shiny dark green leaves in a generous clump, ample and bright white spathes.

📏 H80 cm | Pot Ø24 cm

Spathiphyllum 'Bellini'

LargeBright greenEasy

Slender silhouette of one meter, long shiny leaves held high on their petioles, airy and graphic appearance.

📏 H100 cm | Pot Ø24 cm

Spathiphyllum 'Sweet Sebastiano'

Very largeDeep greenEasy

The largest in the selection, up to one hundred and ten centimeters, large ample leaves and spectacular spathes in number.

📏 H110 cm | Pot Ø24 cm

Comparison chart

A quick glance to compare varieties by their foliage, size, and the best use for them.

The spathe, this false flower

The large white sail admired on the moonflower is not a flower but a modified leaf. In botany, it is called a spathe: a colored bract whose role is to attract attention — and, in nature, pollinating insects. The true flowers are tiny and cluster on the small cream spike standing at the center of the spathe, called the spadix. This spathe and spadix arrangement is the signature of the entire Araceae family, found identically in Anthurium or Philodendron.

To flower, the moonflower needs a minimum of light — indirect, never scorching. A plant placed in a very dark corner will remain magnificent in foliage but flower little: if you want abundant spathes, bring it closer to a sheer-covered window. A slight temperature contrast between day and night, as well as regular fertilization during the growing season, also encourage flowering. Well cared for, a flowering variety like Vivaldi can bear spathes for much of the year.

Another fascinating feature, the moonflower is one of the most expressive indoor plants there is. When the substrate dries out too much, its flexible petioles lose their rigidity and the whole clump suddenly droops, as if wilted. Just water it then: within a few hours, the plant straightens up completely, as if nothing happened. This mechanism, spectacular but harmless if occasional, makes it a true living watering indicator. However, it’s best not to overdo it: repeated too often, this stress eventually tires the plant and browns the leaf tips.

Once the spathe has faded and turned green, do not hesitate to cut it. Follow the petiole that supports it down to the base of the clump and cut it cleanly at soil level with a clean blade. This action prevents the plant from wasting energy maintaining a flower at the end of its life and keeps the clump neat and airy. It also indirectly stimulates the appearance of new spathes: freed from its old stalks, the plant focuses its resources on its young shoots. Trimming faded spathes is therefore part of regular maintenance, just like removing yellowed leaves.

Daily care

The peace lily is one of the most forgiving plants. A few guidelines are enough to keep it dense, green, and flowering in the long term.

Exposure

Indirect light, from moderate to bright. It is one of the few flowering plants to tolerate fairly low exposure, making it valuable for less sunny rooms. However, it fears direct sun, which burns the foliage and leaves dry spots. For beautiful flowering, provide bright but filtered light, behind a sheer curtain. Turning the pot a quarter turn each week helps the clump develop evenly rather than leaning toward the window.

Watering

This is the key point. The peace lily likes a cool substrate, never waterlogged or completely dry. Water as soon as the top centimeters of soil are dry, then let the excess drain without ever leaving water standing in the saucer. In summer, the watering frequency increases; in winter, it is spaced out significantly. Its famous tendency to wilt when thirsty provides a convenient indicator, but it is better to anticipate than to always wait for this signal. The watering guide helps find the right rhythm according to the season and the room.

Temperature & humidity

A tropical climate plant, it prefers a stable temperature between 18 and 25 °C and hates the cold. Below 15 °C, its foliage suffers; keep it away from cold windows in winter and drafts. It is also a plant that likes ambient humidity: in a dry interior, the tips of the leaves may brown. Occasional misting, grouping with other plants, or a naturally humid room like a bright bathroom suits it particularly well.

Substrate & repotting

A light, draining soil mix, lightened with some clay pellets or a bit of perlite, prevents stagnant water while keeping some moisture. The peace lily grows fairly quickly and likes to be a bit cramped: repotting every two to three years is enough, in spring, into a pot just slightly larger. You know it’s time when roots form a dense knot and come out of the drainage holes. It’s also the ideal time to divide the clump.

Fertilization

A diluted fertilizer for flowering plants, once a month from spring to late summer, supports growth and encourages flowering. Suspend feeding in autumn and winter when the plant rests. Excess fertilizer often results in burnt leaf tips: it’s better to underdose than overdo it.

Cleaning the foliage

The large shiny leaves of the peace lily collect dust, which dulls their shine and reduces their ability to capture light. A gentle wipe with a damp cloth, leaf by leaf, is enough to restore their luster. Avoid commercial polishing products, which clog pores: clear water remains the best option, and an occasional lukewarm shower effectively cleans the entire foliage.

Propagation by division

The simplest and most reliable method is to divide the clump during spring repotting. Remove the plant from its pot, identify the sections already with roots at the base, then gently separate them by hand or with a clean blade. Each section is immediately potted in a small draining container and recovers in a few weeks in a warm, humid atmosphere. It’s the perfect opportunity to give a new plant or expand your collection at no cost.

• Keep the substrate moist, never soggy or completely dry.
• Provide bright but filtered light to encourage flowering.
• Never let water stagnate in the saucer.
• Increase ambient humidity if the leaf tips brown.
• Keep warm, away from drafts and cold below 15 °C.

Common problems

Most issues with the peace lily show up on its foliage and can be easily fixed once the cause is identified.

Yellowing leaves remain the most common and most misunderstood signal: it almost always indicates overwatering rather than a lack. Our article on causes of yellow leaves explains how to distinguish between thirst and excess water.

Decor ideas & pairings

With its deep green foliage and pure white spathes, the peace lily fits everywhere and enhances both a simple interior and a lush plant arrangement.

• As a touch of freshness: the contrast of the white spathes against the dark green brings light to a dimly lit room, where few flowering plants thrive.
• As a floor piece: a large variety like Bellini or Sweet Sebastiano dresses a bare corner and structures the space, alone or at the foot of a bookshelf.
• Playing with heights: combine a large floor piece with compact subjects like Bingo Cupido to create depth and a gradient of sizes.
• With the right decorative pot: a matte off-white or beige container emphasizes the purity of the spathes, while an anthracite or terracotta tone brings out the deep green of the foliage.

To extend the arrangement, the peace lily naturally fits into a selection of plant decor alongside other graphic foliage. It pairs especially well with plants that have lighter or variegated leaves, which highlight its dark green, and with species that have a trailing habit, contrasting with its upright tuft.

Its tolerance for low light opens up spots that few flowering plants can handle: an entryway, a hallway, a corner of the living room far from the window, a bright bathroom where it will appreciate the humidity. This is precisely where it makes a difference, bringing greenery and blooms to areas usually reserved for strictly green plants. For a polished effect, make sure the pot matches the ambiance: whites and beiges soothe and extend the whiteness of the spathes, while mineral and dark materials anchor the plant and intensify its foliage.

Finally, consider the height rhythm: a trio composed of a tall slender variety, a medium-sized plant, and a small compact form immediately creates a balanced scene, much livelier than a row of plants of the same size. The peace lily, with its graceful silhouette, lends itself perfectly to this.

Frequently asked questions