🌵 Tips
🌿 Succulents
🌿 In brief
Cacti and succulents almost never die of thirst: they die from excess water and lack of light. Place them in the brightest spot in the house, water thoroughly but only when the substrate is dry, and reduce watering considerably in winter. And beware: not all “cacti” are cared for in the same way.
We buy them because we think they are indestructible, and that is precisely what kills them. A cactus placed on a dark shelf and watered “a little, often” rots within a few months. Conversely, when cared for as it needs - plenty of light, little but thorough watering, and a proper winter rest - it thrives for years without weakening. Here are the basics for getting it right from the start, beginning with the distinction that almost no one makes, followed by a selection of more than twenty succulents classified by family.
Four families, four sets of needs
The label “succulents” encompasses plants with very different origins. Confusing them means applying the care of a forest species to a desert species.
| Family | What it needs |
|---|---|
| Desert cacti | Direct sun, very infrequent watering, and a cool, dry rest in winter. The most drought-resistant. |
| Forest cacti | Bright light without harsh sun, more regular watering, and a little humidity. They grow on trees in nature. |
| Succulents | Plenty of light, water as soon as the substrate is dry. Fleshy leaves that store water. |
| “False cacti” euphorbias | Similar care to desert cacti, but with irritating milky sap: gloves are essential when handling them. |
Euphorbias deserve special mention: they look like cacti but are not, and their white latex is irritating to the skin and eyes and toxic if ingested. Our Euphorbia guide details the precautions, while our guide to toxic plants covers the species to keep away from children and pets.
Light above all
It is the number-one factor, far ahead of watering. A desert cactus or succulent receives light in nature that even the brightest windowsill struggles to reproduce.
The best location
Directly next to a south- or west-facing window, without a sheer curtain. One metre from the glass, the light is already reduced by half.
The sign of insufficient light
The plant stretches towards the window, becomes pale, and its new growth is thinner than the old. This etiolation is irreversible in the part that has already become deformed.
The simple step
Turn the pot a quarter turn every two weeks so that the plant grows straight and receives light on all sides.
Forest cacti are the exception: direct summer sun will scorch them and make them turn red. Bright, filtered light suits them better. To choose the right spot in your home, our guide to windowsill plants reviews every orientation.
💡 Beware of sudden changes
A plant that comes from a shop or parcel is not used to full sun. Acclimatise it gradually over one to two weeks; otherwise, brown scorch marks will appear.
Watering: plenty, but infrequently
This is where everything is decided. The rule can be summed up in one sentence: water thoroughly, then wait until the substrate is completely dry before watering again.
The “soak then dry” method
Pour in water until it runs out through the hole in the bottom, let it drain, and empty the saucer. Then do nothing until the substrate is dry all the way through - not just on the surface. Frequent light watering is exactly what you should not do: it keeps the roots permanently damp without ever truly watering them.
The schedule by season
In spring and summer, this means watering every two to three weeks on average, more often for small pots exposed to full sun. In autumn, gradually increase the intervals. In winter, desert cacti go dormant: water at most once a month, or not at all if they are kept in a cool room. This dormancy triggers flowering the following spring.
Forest cacti are different
Rhipsalis, Epiphyllum, Lepismium and Hatiora do not like to dry out completely. Water them as soon as the surface is dry to a depth of two centimetres, and maintain a more regular schedule, even in winter.
⚠️ Rot gives no warning
A base that softens, turns black, or becomes translucent indicates root rot, almost always caused by too much water. At this stage, remove the plant from its pot, cut away the soft parts, and let it dry before repotting it in dry substrate.
Substrate and pot
The two must work toward the same goal: allowing water to drain quickly and the growing medium to dry out between waterings.
As for the growing medium, universal potting soil alone retains too much moisture. Use special cactus soil, or a mix of potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite in roughly equal parts. The goal is a mix that lets water drain through in a few seconds and dries within a few days. Our guide which potting soil for which plant explains the proportions in detail.
As for the pot, a drainage hole is non-negotiable. Terracotta is the ideal material for these plants: being porous, it allows moisture to escape through its sides and speeds up drying. Choose a pot only slightly wider than the root ball: too much soil stays wet for too long. Our guide to choosing the right pot explains the materials and sizes in detail.
🌿 Repotting a cactus without getting pricked
Wrap a strip of paper folded into several layers around the cactus to grasp it, or use thick gloves. Then leave the plant without water for a week so that the small damaged roots can heal.
Beginner mistakes
The same mistakes almost always happen again, and they are all avoidable.
- Watering a little every week “just to be safe”: this is the leading cause of death. It is better to forget than to give too much.
- Leaving water standing in the saucer or decorative pot: always empty them after each watering.
- Putting the plant in a dark room because it is “unkillable”: without light, it slowly becomes spindly.
- Watering as much in winter as in summer: winter dormancy requires significantly reducing watering.
- Treating a forest cactus like a desert cactus, or vice versa: check the family before applying a rule.
When properly cared for, cacti and succulents are among the most long-lived plants there are: many live for decades, and some even eventually flower every spring. They are also excellent candidates for hot indoor spaces in summer and for people who are often away.
Our selection by family
Here are more than twenty cacti and succulents from our catalog, arranged by family so you can see at a glance how to care for each one.
Desert cacti
The most drought-resistant: full sun, very infrequent watering, dry rest in winter.
A tree-like prickly pear cactus: its flat, thorny segments stack up on an upright trunk. A spectacular silhouette for a south-facing window.
View Opuntia →
Six desert cacti in various shapes, columns and spheres, to instantly create a windowsill or bright shelf arrangement.
View the set →
Miniature cacti already planted in porous terracotta pots: the simplest format to get started.
View the mini cacti →Forest cacti
Epiphytes in nature, they prefer bright, filtered light and more regular watering. Often trailing, they look superb in hanging planters.
A cascade of fine, cylindrical, spineless stems. It enjoys bright, filtered light and more regular watering than desert cacti.
View Rhipsalis →
Its slender stems take on red hues in the light. Superb in a hanging planter, sheltered from the scorching sun.
View Red Coral →
Flat, flexible stems cascade down in long garlands. A generous forest cactus for dressing up a high shelf.
View Lepismium →
Its flat stems cut into a zigzag pattern are spectacular, and its large, fragrant flowers open on well-established plants.
View the zigzag cactus →
Segmented stems made up of small clubs form a light, bushy shape covered with small yellow-orange flowers in spring.
View Hatiora →
The cactus that produces dragon fruit, with climbing triangular stems. Indoors, it grows quickly and appreciates a support.
View Hylocereus →Succulents with fleshy leaves
Their thick leaves store the water: plenty of light, water as soon as the substrate is dry.
The best-known succulent, with thick leaves filled with gel. Tolerant and communicative: its leaves become thinner when it is thirsty.
View the Aloe vera →
A small aloe rosette with fine, pointed leaves and a highly graphic look. Perfect for a sunny desk.
View the Aloe Spider →
Thick, rough leaves speckled with light markings. Gasteria tolerates less intense light than most succulents.
View the Gasteria →
A small Crassula with graphic foliage, compact and easy to care for, ideal for creating a succulent arrangement.
View the Crassula →
Cylindrical leaves covered with fine silvery fuzz, arranged in a rosette. A bright contrast among green succulents.
View the Senecio →
The flowering succulent: dense clusters of flowers lasting two to three months, with very little water.
View the Kalanchoe →Trailing succulents
Fleshy vines to place up high near a window, so they can trail freely.
Fine vines bearing small marbled heart-shaped leaves. A delicate trailing succulent, beautiful in a hanging planter.
View the string of hearts →
Trailing stems covered with small striped oval pearls. Infrequent watering and bright light are all it needs.
View the string of pearls →
Three trailing succulents already arranged in a hanging planter, ready to hang near a window.
View the trio →Euphorbias, the false cacti
A cactus-like silhouette and similar care, but with irritating milky sap: always handle with gloves.
Upright triangular stems dotted with small leaves. Fast-growing with a cactus-like silhouette, without actually being a cactus.
View Euphorbia trigona →
The purple version of the candlestick tree, in a large size. A highly graphic vertical presence for a bright living room.
View the Rubra →
Thick branches that branch out like a candelabra. A sculptural euphorbia to handle with gloves.
View the cowboy cactus →Starter assortments
The easiest way to create a varied collection without having to choose each plant individually.
An assortment of small succulents for trying different shapes and colors without risk.
View the mix →
Cacti and succulents gathered in terracotta pots: the ideal plant-and-material duo for beginners.
View the mix →
An aloe rosette and a young dragon fruit cactus, brought together for a contrast of shapes.
View the duo →Verdeia — Live plants
Cacti, succulents and succulent plants
Mini cacti, Aloe, Euphorbia, Rhipsalis: discover our collection of succulents, from desk-sized plants to spectacular silhouettes.
Frequently asked questions
Every two to three weeks in spring and summer, only when the substrate is dry throughout. In winter, no more than once a month.
Place it directly against the brightest window, facing south or west. Forest cacti prefer bright but filtered light.
Almost always because of excess water, which causes the roots to rot. Remove it from its pot, cut off the soft parts, and let it dry before repotting.
All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. Cacti have areoles from which spines grow; other succulents store water in their leaves.
No, it is a euphorbia that resembles it. Its care needs are similar, but its milky sap is irritating: handle it with gloves.
Well accompanied
The right pot for your succulents
Pots with drainage holes and decorative pots suited to small plants: everything you need to create a windowsill that is both beautiful and well-drained.
